Hello Friends and welcome to my channel!
This week I embarked on something scary - creating my very first full drafting video for you all. As I say in the video, this week was a struggle with my mental health, but the love and support I've received from you all kept me going - THANK YOU!
Your response to my Sweetheart Dress was truly overwhelming, so here is the very first step towards creating your own! And indeed, to creating any design your heart desires!!
As always, please feel free to comment below - I love to hear from you.
Enjoy!
Evelyn
xoxo
BODICE BLOCK PRECIS.
Plot 1/2 your largest horizontal measurement plus 4 inches along the bottom of your paper ("waistline").
Square up from this line on the left by your back shoulder to waist measurement ("Centre Back") and on the right by your front shoulder to waist measurement ("Centre Front").
Plot your apex to waistline measurement up from the waistline, drawing a horizontal line from Centre Back to Centre Front ("Bustline").
Mark your apex points on this Bustline, marking half of your apex to apex measurement in from Centre Back, and a half from Centre Front Mark the same points along the waistline, drawing a horizontal line between these marks at waist and bust lines to create your "apex lines" and "apex points".
BACK BODICE -
Create your back dart by marking 1/2 inch either side of the apex line on the waistline. Mark a point 1.5 inches below the apex point. Join this point to the 1/2 inch marks below, creating your dart.
Mark 1/4 of your waist measurement plus 1 inch for the dart and 1/4 inch ease onto the waistline from Centre Back.
Mark 1/4 of your full bust measurement plus 1/4 inch ease OR 1/2 your chest back measurement plus 1/4 inch ease onto the bustline from Centre Back.
Join these points together creating your side seam.
Square across from the top of the Centre Back line ("shoulder line").
Draw a second horizontal line 1 inch below this shoulder line ("shoulder slope line").
Along the top line mark 1/2 your shoulder to shoulder measurement.
From this mark, mark your neck to shoulder point measurement inwards towards Centre Back ("neck point").
Draw a concave inward curve from this neck point onto the shoulder slope line to Centre Back, creating your "back neckline".
Place your ruler at the neck point and pivot it downwards to plot your neck to shoulder measurement from this point onto the shoulder slope line, creating your back shoulder seam.
Create the armscye - draw a line measuring 1/6 your full bust measurement plus 1 inch ease down from the shoulder edge. Square across from this point to Centre Back and slightly towards Centre Front. Square your bustline up to this line.
Divide the vertical armhole line into 6ths, marking 1/6 from the bottom. Divide again into 3rds, marking the upper 1/3.
At this upper 1/3, come in towards Centre Back and mark at 1/2 INCH.
Create your armscye by joining the shoulder edge, new 1/3 point and lower 1/6 point onto the squared line in a smooth curve.
Your Back Bodice Block is complete!
FRONT BODICE -
Create the Front Dart as for the Back, deciding on the amount you wish to use for this dart, the dart fullness increasing as the difference between bust and waist measurements increases.
Create the Shoulder Seam using the same method as for the Back Bodice, locating the shoulder slope line 1.5 inches below the Shoulder line this time. When pivoting down to the shoulder slope line to create the shoulder seam, subtract 1/4 inch from your 1/2 shoulder to shoulder measurement to aid fit.
The front neckline curves from the neck point to meet the Centre Front line 2.5 inches from the top of the Centre Front line.
The armscye is created using the same measurements and method used for the Back Bodice, coming in 5/8 inch at the 1/3 point rather than at 1/2 INCH, then joining the points in a smooth curve to create the armhole curve.
Where the front shoulder to waist measurement is greater than the back shoulder to waist measurement, create a bustline dart to remove this and true the side seams. Plot half of the difference on each side of the bustline at the front side seam, drawing the dart legs to meet 1.5 inches from the apex point.
Remember to add your desired seam allowance to your pattern or when cutting out. The choice is yours!
And there you have it!
Your very own Bodice Block tailored to your measurements!