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Clayton Nienaber, the surf coach of @ombesurf joins me in this week’s podcast to reveal the key to unlocking better surfing by understanding the mechanics of a wave and learning about speed, power, and flow.
Chapters
00:00 Starting with a Passion for Surfing
04:15 Transitioning to Board Shaping
07:41 The Importance of Making Mistakes
10:28 Understanding Surfing Levels: Freeze, Flight, Fight, Flow
13:22 The Relationship Between Speed, Power, and Flow
19:11 The Power and Energy of Waves
21:04 Surfing with Speed, Power, and Flow
25:13 The Importance of Early Bottom Turns
28:07 The Combination of Rider Input and Wave Power
30:36 Transitioning Between Different Board Designs
40:16 Choosing the Right Board for Different Waves
42:10 Using Cameras to Analyze Wave Performance
44:35 The Importance of Reading the Bottom of the Wave
45:38 The Process of Learning to Surf
47:00 Understanding Different Parts of the Wave
48:56 The Debate: Head Up vs Head Down When Paddling
58:01 Using Surfskate to Improve Surfing Technique
01:05:39 Teaching Sensation Rather than Replicating Surfing
01:09:04 The Showdown: Head Up vs Head Down Paddling
Subscribe for more interviews with pro surfers, coaches, shapers, and everyday surfers like Victor Bernardo, Matt Parker of Album Surf, Matt Meola, Noel Salas of Surf n Show, Kassia Meador, Ryan Lovelace, Dylan Lightfoot, Derek Dunfee, Magnum Martinez, Isaac Stant, Nakoa Decoite, and more!
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