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Listen to the full audio episode and other full-length episodes featuring the biggest names in climbing:
➡️ https://www.thestruggleclimbingshow.com/mind-blowing-finger-strength-study-with-emil-abrahamsson-and-dr-keith-baar/
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➡️ https://www.thestruggleclimbingshow.com/patreonyoutube
Dr. Keith Baar's Article:
➡️ https://sportsmedicine-open.springeropen.com/articles/10.1186/s40798-024-00793-7
This clip is pulled from a full podcast interview: Climbing Coaches Emil Abrahamsson and Dr Keith Baar joins to discuss:
Overview of Emil's viral "No Hang" protocol (aka, Abra-hangs)
The scientific paper that gave Emil and his brother the idea for the Abra-hang experiment
Accessing thousands of points of climber data
Measuring three groups ("just climb", "max hang", and "no hang")
The shocking results of the finger strength study
What the results of the study might mean for how climbers train finger strength
Abra-hang protocol for injured and healthy climbers
Goals for more studies and exploring other variables