How To Build Finger Strength (SCIENCE EXPLAINED)

Timestamps: 0:00 Dr. Keith Baar 1:00 Two hangs per day 2:58 Background to research 3:58 Groups of climbers 5:18 Results! 8:01 Conclusions 11.50 Limitations 12:40 Next steps This description will be updated as more information becomes available! If you wish to help with the prospective study you can answer the VISA-C (injury questionaire) here: https://tinyurl.com/ucdavisclimbingstudy You can download Crimpd here and search for "Emil" to try the workout yourself: https://www.crimpd.com/ Link to Ryan Devlin's podcast with me and Keith Baar: https://youtu.be/8hXfvFuA_6E?si=53Q8ZKdHWSryPicn Link to the article: https://sportsmedicine-open.springeropen.com/articles/10.1186/s40798-024-00793-7 Original video "Hangboard Training 2 Times Per Day For 30 Days": https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=sBTI9qiH4UE&t=206s Follow up two years later "Hangboard Training 2 times per day for 2 years": https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0rAkLqk3UXM Massive thank you to Keith Baar, Natalie Gilmore and Peter Klimek for making this knowledge available to us all. My gear: Favorite shoes MadRock Drone https://madrock.com/collections/shoes/products/dronehv MadRock Drone CS https://madrock.com/collections/shoes/products/drone-cs-hv Instagram: https://www.instagram.com/emil_abrahamsson_/ https://www.instagram.com/cordiclimbs/ FIlmed by Cordelia Mangia Jansson Edited by Emil Abrahamsson