Timestamps:
0:00 Dr. Keith Baar
1:00 Two hangs per day
2:58 Background to research
3:58 Groups of climbers
5:18 Results!
8:01 Conclusions
11.50 Limitations
12:40 Next steps
This description will be updated as more information becomes available!
If you wish to help with the prospective study you can answer the VISA-C (injury questionaire) here:
https://tinyurl.com/ucdavisclimbingstudy
You can download Crimpd here and search for "Emil" to try the workout yourself:
https://www.crimpd.com/
Link to Ryan Devlin's podcast with me and Keith Baar:
https://youtu.be/8hXfvFuA_6E?si=53Q8ZKdHWSryPicn
Link to the article:
https://sportsmedicine-open.springeropen.com/articles/10.1186/s40798-024-00793-7
Original video "Hangboard Training 2 Times Per Day For 30 Days":
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=sBTI9qiH4UE&t=206s
Follow up two years later "Hangboard Training 2 times per day for 2 years":
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0rAkLqk3UXM
Massive thank you to Keith Baar, Natalie Gilmore and Peter Klimek for making this knowledge available to us all.
My gear:
Favorite shoes
MadRock Drone https://madrock.com/collections/shoes/products/dronehv
MadRock Drone CS https://madrock.com/collections/shoes/products/drone-cs-hv
Instagram:
https://www.instagram.com/emil_abrahamsson_/
https://www.instagram.com/cordiclimbs/
FIlmed by Cordelia Mangia Jansson
Edited by Emil Abrahamsson