► Sew Essential https://www.sewessential.co.uk/
► Babylock Desire 3 https://www.sewessential.co.uk/baby-lock-desire-3-coverlock-machine
► Babylock 5mm piping foot for coverlock machines https://www.sewessential.co.uk/baby-lock-5mm-piping-cording-foot-34613
► Babylock 5mm piping foot for overlocker machines https://www.sewessential.co.uk/baby-lock-5mm-piping-cording-foot
► Babylock foot set for coverlock machines https://www.sewessential.co.uk/baby-lock-accessory-feet-package
► Babylock foot set for overlocker machines https://www.sewessential.co.uk/baby-lock-foot-set-for-overlock-machine
► Sew Essential overlocker range https://www.sewessential.co.uk/sewing-machines-and-accessories/overlockers
► Janome foot set for zips and piping https://www.sewessential.co.uk/janome-overlocker-piping-foot-202039000
► Brother overlocker piping foot https://www.sewessential.co.uk/brother-piping-foot-xb3630001
► Husqvarna overlocker piping foot https://www.sewessential.co.uk/inspira-piping-foot-for-husqvarna-and-pfaff-overlockers-620116996
► Pfaff overlocker piping foot https://www.sewessential.co.uk/inspira-piping-foot-for-husqvarna-and-pfaff-overlockers-620116996
► How to sew piping for dressmaking https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=XJkk_V2StCU
► How to create your own bias binding https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ofdwDCv60s4&t=21s&ab_channel=SewEssential
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I'm so excited to show you some brilliant overlocker sewing techniques this week - how to sew a zip on an overlocker and also how to sew piping on an overlocker.
I used my Babylock Desire 3 coverlock machine and the 5mm piping and cording foot.
For the zip I used a standard dress and skirt zip with plastic teeth that was much longer than the length of fabric I was using to give me room to manoeuvre the zip teeth under the foot and in the groove on the piping and cording foot. I would never use a metal teeth zip with my overlocker. This technique is great for bag making and purses and the like. You could possibly use it for dressmaking, although you'd have to consider how to start and finish the ends, perhaps with your sewing machine.
I used a three thread overlocking stitch with a stitch length of 3 and width of 7.5, stitch selector on A and no differential feed. I pinned the zip right sides together with the main fabric and then pinned the lining to the other side of the zip lining up the raw edges and stitched in place. I then closed the zip and pinned the fabrics to the other zip tape then opened the zip to stitch in place. It creates a lovely neat zip thanks to the feet feeding through the channel in the foot.
For the piping I used a 3mm piping cord and created my own binding using my rotary cutter and cutting board. The piping was 3.5cm wide. I used the same settings on my Babylock Desire 3 and stitched the cord into the binding first then stitched it between the two layers of fabric. Again, a lovely, neat even finish thanks to the channel on the piping foot.
These feet are available for Babylock coverlock and overlocker machines on our site and I've added links to them all below.
You can also purchase a set of feet for some of the Janome overlockers, which has a channel wide enough for zip teeth and will also allow you to sew two widths of piping and I've included links for this below. You can purchase Brother, Pfaff and Husqvarna feet that will allow you to sew piping, but aren't wide enough for the zips and I've linked those below. Always check for compatibility with your make and model of machine and drop us an email if you need any help.
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00:00 Introduction
01:02 Overlocker piping feet explanation
03:25 Preparing the fabric
05:38 Overlocking the first side of the zip
07:11 Pinning the fabric for the other side of the zip
10:02 Overlocking the other side of the zip
11:54 Overlocking piping cord into custom made binding
15:36 Overlocking the piping between two layers of fabric
17:20 Conclusion