Double process coloring is a two-step hair coloring technique often used for dramatic color changes, such as going from dark to very light shades (e.g., blonde or pastels). The first step involves lightening the hair by bleaching or using a high-lift color, and the second step deposits the desired color on the pre-lightened hair. It can be a challenging process for textured hair, which tends to be more fragile and prone to dryness. Here’s how to safely approach double process coloring on textured hair:
1. Start with a Hair Health Assessment
Textured hair can be more susceptible to damage from chemical processes, so assess the client’s hair health first. Look for signs of damage, dryness, or breakage and discuss their hair history. Ensure the hair is strong enough to handle both a lightening and coloring process.
2. Pre-Treatment with Moisture and Protein
A week or two before the coloring service, recommend deep-conditioning treatments, balancing moisture and protein to strengthen and hydrate the hair. This helps prep textured hair to withstand the chemical processes.
3. Use a Gentle Lightener and Low Developer
Opt for a high-quality, gentle lightener and use a low-volume developer (10 or 20 volume). A slower lift minimizes the risk of excessive dryness and breakage. Applying the lightener in sections and monitoring closely will help prevent over-processing.
4. Focus on Technique
Textured hair lightens unevenly, so work in small sections and apply the lightener evenly to avoid patchiness. Start with the lengths and ends before applying to the roots, as roots process faster due to body heat.
5. Limit Processing Time
Textured hair can become brittle if exposed to lightener for too long. Check the hair frequently, and rinse as soon as it reaches the desired level of lift. If the goal is a very light blonde, you may need to lift in stages over multiple sessions instead of trying to achieve it in one sitting.
6. Use Bond-Building Products
Products like Olaplex or other bond builders protect the hair structure during lightening, reducing the risk of breakage. These are especially beneficial for textured hair as they maintain integrity throughout the coloring process.
7. Condition After Rinsing
After rinsing out the lightener, apply a protein-rich conditioner or mask to restore moisture and strengthen the hair before applying the second color.
8. Apply the Final Color with a Low-Volume Developer
Once the hair has been pre-lightened and conditioned, apply the desired color using a low-volume developer to reduce stress on the hair.
9. Follow with a Deep-Conditioning Treatment
Once the process is complete, follow up with a moisturizing deep-conditioning treatment or mask to replenish lost hydration and seal in moisture.
10. Maintenance and Aftercare
Double-process color on textured hair requires diligent aftercare. Recommend sulfate-free, hydrating shampoos, regular deep-conditioning treatments, and avoiding heat styling to keep the hair healthy and vibrant.