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傑·文化-參觀北京明朝十三陵之首:長陵 Kit.Culture -Visit the 1st Ming Dynasty Tombs in Beijing: Changling

Chung kit Yu 19 lượt xem 16 hours ago
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2025年1月下旬,我因從北京往返俄羅斯西伯利亞去貝加爾湖旅遊,藉此之便在旅程前後逗留北京數天以感受農曆新年節慶氣氛。期間,我去了明成祖朱棣的長陵參觀,主要看點是以60根巨大金絲楠木建築的祾恩殿。它是北京紫禁城旁由68根金絲楠木柱構建的太廟大殿外,全中國現存明朝第2最大金絲楠木殿。

長陵是明成祖朱棣(在位22年-公元1402-1424) 和仁孝文皇后徐氏(明朝開國功臣徐達之女)的合葬墓,位於北京市昌平區天壽山主峰南麓,始建於永樂七年(1409年)。

長陵陵園規模龐大,建築規模為明十三陵之首,陵宮建築佔地約12萬平方米。平面佈局呈前方後圓形狀。其前面的方形部分,由前後相連的三進院落組成。長陵用料嚴格考究,施工精細,工程浩繁,營建時日曠久,僅地下宮殿就歷時四年。長陵是朱棣在營建北京皇宮同時始建,地宮於永樂十一年(1413年)建成。地面上建築通直至宣德二年(1427年)3月才基本完工。

長陵的整體佈局為“前方後圓”,整個陵宮建築南向偏西9度。長陵的陵宮建築平面佈局呈前方後圓形狀,包括陵門、神庫、神廚、碑亭、祾恩門、祾恩殿、欞星門、寶城、明樓等(現部分建築已不存)。寶城磚砌,圓形,直徑約340米,周長1公裡多,上有垛口,形似城堡。內為高大的封土,封土下面就是地宮的位置。寶城南面中央有門,可沿磴道上達明樓。

神功聖德碑亭碑亭平面為方形,台基邊寬23.1米,亭高25.14米,四面各闢券門,重檐歇山頂。碑亭四壁及台基為明朝原物,亭內石條券頂是清乾隆五十至五十二年(1785-1787)修繕時改建的,現仍完好如初。民國及新中國成立後曾對頂部殘壞的構件進行更換和加固。

四座華表豎立在神功聖德碑亭四角,白石雕刻而成,高10.81米,對稱而設。華表形制和紋飾相同。基座均為平面呈八邊形的須彌座。其上下坊束腰處均雕有精美致的雲龍圖案。華表柱八角形,但棱角處比較渾圓。柱身上雕刻著縈繞柱身盤旋而上的升龍和雲朵。華表上部裝飾雲形石板。在頂部蹲立著一隻昂首長嘶的神獸——蹲龍。這四座既是墓前的標志,又是碑亭的石雕裝飾物,使周圍的環境更顯莊嚴神聖。華表四周明朝時曾設有白石欄,後毀壞。1994年,修葺神道時進行了重新配置。

十三陵神道,即長陵神道,是長陵陵寢建築的前導部分。總長約7.3公裡。明朝時由南而北,依次建有石牌坊、三空橋、大紅門、神功聖德碑亭、石像生、欞星門、南五空橋、七空橋、北五空橋等系列神道墓儀設施及橋涵建築。始建於明正統初年,明嘉靖十九年(1540)完成。現除橋涵建築已殘壞外,其他墓儀設施保存較好。

祾恩殿是嗣皇帝祭祀朱棣及皇后的場所,建築在漢白玉雕刻成的三層台基上,金磚鋪地。殿面闊九間(66.56米),進深五間(29.12米),象徵著皇帝“九五”之位。所有木件全用金絲楠木為之,古色古香。一米多直徑,十幾米高的六十根金絲楠木大柱,承托著2300平方米的重檐廡殿頂,雄偉壯觀、舉世無雙。最粗的一根重檐金柱,高12.58米,底徑達到1.124米,為世間罕見佳木。

祾恩殿內景中有端坐於九龍寶座之上的永樂皇帝銅像,形象逼真,做工精湛考究,此造像是史上精美絕倫的藝術佳作。由苗新田設計製作完成;像高4.8米,錫青銅材質。此外陳列著明定陵(神宗皇帝朱翊鈞,俗稱萬曆皇帝)地宮出土文物百餘件(複製品),並播放1956年發掘地宮的實況錄像,幫助游人解開地宮之謎。

裬恩殿是十三陵中唯一保存下來的祾恩殿。祾恩殿,原稱享殿,嘉靖十七年(公元1538年)明世宗(嘉靖)皇帝到天壽山謁陵,更名為祾恩殿。祾取祭而受福之意,恩取罔極之恩意。也就是說,到這里祭祀可以得到先帝的護佑,恩德是沒有極限的。原殿內日常陳設有神榻(靈座、龕帳)、帝后神牌、冊寶、衣冠 、御座、香案,以及各種樂器。朝廷遣官致祭時,殿內再增置陳設祭品用的正案、從案、三牲( 牛、羊、豬)案匣等。

明樓呈方形,四面闢券門,中貫十字形穹窿式天花。頂為黃筒瓦重檐歇山式,檐下榜額書“長陵”二字。樓正中有碑一座,額篆書“大明”二字,碑身刻“成祖文皇帝之陵”。除陵園本身外,還有東西二墳,東墳在德陵饅頭山南,西墳在定陵西北,墳內分別埋葬十六個為朱棣殉葬的宮妃,因其墳形如深井,故名東井、西井。

1961年, 包含明長陵在內的十三陵被中國國務院公佈為第一批全國重點文物保護單位。2003年7月,包含明長陵在內的明十三陵作為明清皇家陵寢的一部分收入《世界遺產名錄》。

來源: 百度百科

In late January 2025, I traveled from Beijing to Siberia, Russia to Lake Baikal. I took the opportunity to stay in Beijing for a few days before and after the trip to experience the festive atmosphere of the Lunar New Year. During the visit, I visited the Changling Mausoleum of Emperor Zhu Di of the Ming Dynasty. The main attraction was the Zun'en Hall, which was built with 60 huge golden nanmu trees. It is the second largest golden nanmu hall of the Ming Dynasty in China, just after the Taimiao Hall next to the Forbidden City in Beijing, built with 68 golden nanmu columns,.

Changling is the joint tomb of Emperor Chengzu Zhu Di (Reigned 22 years - 1402-1424 AD) and Empress Renxiaowen Xu (daughter of Xu Da, a founding hero of the Ming Dynasty). It is located on the southern foot of the main peak of Tianshou Mountain in Changping District, Beijing. Construction began in the seventh year of Yongle (1409).

The Changling Mausoleum is huge in scale, and its buildings are the largest among the Ming Tombs. The mausoleum and palace buildings cover an area of ​​about 120,000 square meters. The floor plan is in the shape of a front and back circle. The square part in front of it consists of three courtyards connected front and back. The materials used in Changling were carefully selected, the construction was meticulous, and the project was huge and took a long time to build. The underground palace alone took four years to complete. The Changling Mausoleum was built by Zhu Di at the same time as the Beijing Imperial Palace, and the underground palace was completed in the 11th year of Yongle (1413). The ground construction was basically completed in March of the second year of Xuande (1427).

The overall layout of Changling is "front is front and back is round", and the entire mausoleum building faces 9 degrees south and west. The layout of the mausoleum palace buildings in Changling is in the shape of a square in front and a circle in the back, including the mausoleum gate, god treasury, god kitchen, stele pavilion, Zun'en Gate, Zun'en Hall, Lingxing Gate, Baocheng, Minglou, etc. (some buildings no longer exist). Baocheng is brick-built, circular, with a diameter of about 340 meters and a circumference of more than 1 kilometer. It has battlements on top and is shaped like a castle. Inside is a tall mound, below which is the location of the underground palace. There is a gate in the center of the south side of Baocheng, and you can go up to Ming Tower along the steps.

Source: Baidu Encyclopedia

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