https://www.aconcordcarpenter.com/replacing-a-load-bearing-beam-with-a-flush-beam.html
So we turned to a local steel company that supplies, preps and installs the beam. We supplied the steel company with the length of beam which was the entire beam length minus ¼” and specified that we wanted the beam to fit inside a 2x10 joist bay.
The steel company uses a local structural engineer who specified a W8x58 steel beam with 4x6 PSL posts. The PSL posts transfer the weight to other posts [bearing points] or the foundation below
Note – with steel beams the engineer, may specify 4x6 PSL posts secured with metal connectors, or steel posts welded to steel plates.
We supplied the steel company with the floor joist layout, so they could drill the 1/2” holes in between the floor joists. The holes allow solid lumber to be bolted to the beam. Carriage bolts or threaded rod can be used to secure the wood to the beam.
TIP: Threaded rod is more affordable, and is easily sourced.
Solid wood was installed on each side of the beam. This is called “packing the beam,” the three 2x8 boards were needed to extend past the top and bottom steel flange. This solid wood allows for attachment of the joists via joist hangers.
TIP: When installing the solid wood; the area where the top and bottom flanges meet the vertical I-beam web is slightly rounded. Bevel the edges of your 2x8 to fit tight against the web.
Prior to removing a bearing wall, remove the wall or ceiling board to expose the framing. Then remove or relocate wires, pipes or duct-work that will be in the way of the beam.
Strip the ceiling back 2 -3 feet back from the wall to be removed or beam, and install your temporary wall. This is needed to access the ceiling framing, relocate wires, pipes, and to install your temporary support walls.
In our case we built our walls 4 feet back due to the kitchen island and the need for a 4-foot corridor to allow the Sumner Roust-A-Bout Lift to roll in. The beam weighed more than one lift could handle, so two lifts were used. 48” of clearance was needed directly below, and on each end, of the beam. In some cases one lift will suffice and that lift will be centered under the beam.
TIP: Before building your temporary walls talk to the steel fabricator and see what they need for clearance for their equipment.
Attach temporary wall studs to top and bottom plates 2 to 3 feet back from the wall or beam. Ensure a snug fit, by cutting your studs about 1⁄8 to 1⁄4 inch long and tap place. Place a stud under each ceiling joist and use two or three 3- inch #10 deck screws.
Weight loading the temporary studs will occur once you remove the bearing wall, or beam. In our case we noticed loading once the two vertical posts were removed. Tip: install mid-height horizontal or diagonal bracing on the temporary wall to prevent the studs from bowing.
We were removing one beam and replacing it with a flush beam so we used the same beam pocket locations, but enlarged them to accommodate the new steel beam. Note: Add 1/2” to the steel beam width measurement to allow for an easier installation.
We used a Bosch Green line laser to connect both beam pocket locations and then used a speed square to mark cut lines directly on the joists. To start each cut, a circular saw was used and finished up with a reciprocating saw.
After cutting the beam pocket, clean up stray nails to make room for the beam. We used end nippers to cut the nails flush or a reciprocating saw to cut them. Note: Any stray nails can be push up the subfloor or finish floor when the beam is installed.
Once the beam pocket was prepped, we rolled two Sumner Roust-A-Bout lifts into position and centered them under the beam. The beam was then jacked up and into place.
The Sumner Roust-A-Bout lifts enables one man to lift and place loads in tight locations that would be impossible with other lifts. One lift can raise a 1,500 lb. load to heights up to 25-feet in minutes. 4x6 PSL engineered posts were then installed under each beam end.
L-brackets were then attached to the PSL posts with Headlock structural screws and then the bracket is welded to the beam.
If able, add, and attached the PSL posts to wall framing installed on both sides to the top and bottom plates.
#10 joist hanger nails were used to fasten 2x10 Simpson joist hangers to the beam.