Most of my pruning tutorials have been carried out as live content on my subscription based service this year
However, as we enter the middle parts of February, I have seen so many horrendous pruning tutorials flying around on the Internet, but I thought I would just revisit the basics with you again
it’s important you’re working with clean, Sharp, oiled pruning equipment
Remove the dead, dying and diseased if you have any
Then the crossing stems this is not essential, but will reduce the probability of any disease problems in the future
It’s then time to open up the centre of the plant. This is especially crucial in young Plants under 24 months old, this is done by removing any stems growing in the centre of the plant, leaving this space. Empty will allow plenty of light and more importantly, airflow into the centre and avoid a lot of the disease and pest problems. Many growers face
You can then remove any weak and particularly thin stems that are generally thinner than the thickness of of a pencil inevitably, these won’t have the strength to bear the weight of a flower come June and July
Once you’ve carried out the above steps, you can then start reducing last year’s gross by around 2/3. In length I prefer to take mine back to a permanent framework normally around 30 to 45 cm from the ground and I make my cuts every year, just two or 3 inches above last years framework, selecting a strong outward facing Bud
Many will tell you that this is not important, but the selection of these outward facing buds. At this point, will ensure that your plant continues to grow in the direction You want it to,away from centre of the plant and reducing the need to remove crossing stems in the future.
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