Hello everyone,
In this video I assemble an LCDR Covered Carriage Truck from the Chatham Kits range.
Throughout I am using a very cheap temperature controlled 50w soldering iron purchased from Amazon. I don't think the digital temperature display is especially reliable, but that doesn't bother me. I turn it down if the solder starts to burn and not flow, and up again if the solder doesn't melt. That's about as far as I take the science of the matter.
If joining two especially chunky bits of metal I'll turn it up further to get extra heat into the joint such that the solder will flow nicely.
I'm using 145 degree solder for most parts in this build.
Where whitemetal bits need soldering to brass, I'll tin the brass first with the 145 degree solder, then turn the iron down and fix the whitemetal part with low melt 100 degree solder. Bits don't seem to fall off, so the basic theory must be sound enough. :)
For flux I tend to use Powerflow Flux, applied in very small quantities with a cocktail stick. I know there are plenty of folks who would have me hung and drawn for using Powerflow flux, and yes there are alternatives, each with their merits. I like 'Powerflow' though as it just works, and allows the solder I'm using to flow nicely helping me to use the bare minimum which will reduce my preparation time when I come to paint the wagon.
Following each soldering session I give the parts a thorough scrub in scolding hot water, with a little detergent. I have a couple of useful brushes for the task, an old toothbrush and a chisel ended artists paint brush which helps lift any muck out of dark corners.
This leaves them squeaky clean ready for the next session.
Occasionally in the video you will see me use a Resistance Soldering Unit, which is a very handy tool indeed, (for those not in the know, the RSU is connected to the probe device you see me using).
In such cases I'm using it for speed and/or to improve accuracy, or more likely to reduce the need for a complex set-up in terms of holding a part in the correct place. In each case I could have used the soldering iron. However, I've got one so I might as well use it, and for the jobs I used it on it did save me a few minutes of work.
Other tools and equipment are mostly self-explanatory, however the George Watts rivet embossing press is an especially lovely tool to use. In the shots where I am using it I have sped-up the footage, which makes me look like a Olympic-level rivet-embosser - such is the benefit of editing ones' own work.
I've a couple of other simpler tools for this task which no-doubt I'll show in a future video. If you've no such tools, then the point of a scriber works just as well to emboss the rivets. Be careful though to use an even pressure on each rivet and use a compliant backing as your 'anvil' to allow the rivet head to reveal itself once your preferred pointy weapon has been deployed.
I hope you find the video interesting, and see you on the next one.
Cheerio,
James