Ready to start sewing like a viking? With these three basic stitches you can make almost any item of viking age clothing. Learn the authentic stitches you need to join fabrics and protect your raw edges from damage. While individual finds often have other stitches included for decoration, for making your first basic kit, these three are your need-to-knows! Keep an eye out for future videos on the more complex stitches evidenced in the Viking age, and the one on the different seams (seam treatments) the Norse used to make and protect their clothing, coming soon!
Running stitch, or straight stitch is the oldest and simplest form of stitching, where the needle passes in and out the fabric in a straight line, with equal length between the stitches visible on the right and wrong sides of the fabric, meaning the work looks the same on the front and back of the work. This type of stitch is found at Hedeby and Viborg, in Denmark, as well as as shaping stitches on the Skjoldehamn hood.
Back stitch can be used in place of running stitch for extra strength on long seams before felling, or can be used to create lines and contours. It is made by extending the bottom of the stitch on the underside of the work and coming back to insert the needle at the point the last stitch ends. The work looks different on each side, the front appearing neat and regular with single stitches, and the back showing longer, overlapping threads. It is clearly seen in Hedeby and Viborg in Denmark, and was probably also used at Oseberg, Norway and Birka in Sweden.
Hemming stitch or whip stitch is used to secure the edges of garments and in attaching trim. A series of regular, v-shaped stitches encases an edge entirely, holds down turned hems, joins some seams and can secure down edging cords and braids. The diagonal angle of the stitch is useful to hold down loose edges and prevent fraying on all fabrics. The stitches look the same, apart from a reversed angle, on both sides of the work. This stitch is found in clothing construction at Hedeby and Viborg. It is also found used to attach cords and other edging such as tablet weave and braids at Hedeby, Køstrup, Kaupang and Dublin, amongst others.
The stitches seen on wool garments usually range from 1-3 stitches per cm. Wool or linen thread could be used to sew woollen garments.
Linen seams show the most variation. The thread is mainly fine, between 0.4 and 1mm, and as closely stitched as silk, with 3-5 stitches per cm.
Silk hems use as little material as possible and are most often rolled hems. The yarn used is very fine, between 0.3-0.8mm and the stitching is as tight at 4-6 per cm.
Timestamps:
00:00 Introduction to the three basic stitches.
00:25 Running Stitch technique and sewing tips.
02:15 Pinning tips.
03:22 Stitch size and spacing information for wool, linen and silk.
04:47 Back Stitch technique, great for seams that take more force.
07:08 Comparing the stitch lines front and back, and the strength of the seams.
07:41 Suggested uses for backstitch and general sewing tips.
09:27 Finishing a run of stitching, firmly tying off the thread and hiding loose ends.
11:06 Whip Stitch/Hem Stitch. Preparing your raw edges depending on fabric type.
13:26 Whip stitch technique close up and purpose.
14:59 Stitch sizing. Why so tiny though?
15:57 What whip stitch looks like on the right side.
16:15 Finishing a run of whip stitch securely and hiding thread tails.
17:30 A look at all 3 stitches working together.
18:26 The stitches on the right side of the fabric and a look at the stitches in matching thread on a finished garment.
19:21 Summary and farewell, with bonus voice cameo from the youngest Wyrdling, who was very patient while I recorded this!
Thank You so much for watching folks, and as always, if you have any questions or feedback, pop it in the comments below or come and find me on facebook!
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