Welcome to the much-anticipated third season of Magazine St. Kitchen Presents: Speak Greasy with Gauri Devidayal. In this exciting season opener, Gauri engages in a compelling conversation with Dylan Eitharong, the audacious chef-owner of Haawm in Bangkok. Known as the bad boy of Bangkok’s culinary scene, Dylan brings a fresh and unorthodox perspective to cooking, making this episode a must-watch for food enthusiasts, travellers, and anyone interested in the rich tapestry of Thai cuisine.
Dylan’s journey is a fascinating tale of cultural fusion and personal discovery. Born to a Thai father and an American mother, Dylan grew up with a blend of two distinct cultures. It wasn’t until 2019, however, that he decided to relocate to Thailand, initially to pursue a romantic relationship. What started as a quest for love soon evolved into a deeper connection with his Thai heritage and his passion for opening a restaurant after Bangrak.
Upon moving to Bangkok, Dylan began by setting up an Airbnb in his aunt’s house, hoping to tap into the burgeoning Airbnb experiences market. However, the onset of the COVID-19 pandemic brought these plans to a sudden halt. Undeterred, Dylan pivoted, offering restaurant consultancy and cooking classes from the same house. This period of adaptation led to the creation of Haawm, a supper club that has since become a sensation in Bangkok’s vibrant dining scene.
The name "Haawm" is particularly significant, as it means “smell” in Thai and is also a homophone for “home.” This dual meaning encapsulates Dylan’s approach to cooking—bringing together the warmth and comfort of home with the sensory experience of Thai cuisine. Initially starting as a weekly event, Haawm quickly gained popularity, prompting Dylan to offer daily dining experiences that have attracted a diverse clientele.
Dylan’s style of cooking is unapologetically Thai, yet distinctly personal. In this episode, he opens up about the imposter syndrome he experienced in America, where he struggled to present his dishes as genuinely Thai. But upon returning to Thailand, he found the confidence to embrace traditional recipes, infusing them with his own creative twists. His food is loud, raw, and full of character—a true reflection of his personality.
Haawm has garnered both praise and criticism, with Dylan’s unconventional approach resonating more with the older Thai generation, who appreciate his dedication to authenticity and locally sourced ingredients. Meanwhile, younger, affluent Thais often resist his non-traditional methods, preferring the convenience and familiarity of modern dining. Despite operating out of a house, Dylan’s guests sometimes forget they’re not in a conventional restaurant setting, expecting five-star service and ambience.
As the conversation with Gauri unfolds, they discuss the broader challenges and pressures of the culinary industry, particularly the influence of awards like Asia’s 50 Best and the Michelin Guide. Dylan shares his concerns about restaurants opening solely to chase accolades, arguing that this trend can undermine the integrity of the food and create barriers for people to enjoy authentic Thai cuisine. He emphasises the importance of chefs being present in their kitchens, criticising the rise of celebrity chefs who distance themselves from the daily operations of their establishments.
The episode also explores Dylan’s belief in the significance of chefs maintaining a hands-on approach, ensuring that the food served truly represents their vision. This philosophy is evident in Dylan’s daily involvement at Haawm, where he remains deeply connected to the cooking process and the overall dining experience.
The episode concludes with a light-hearted discussion about Dylan’s extensive collection of tattoos, each with its own quirky and often humorous backstory. He also expresses his deep affection for Bombay, which he considers his second favourite city after Bangkok, and his love for Baghdadi in Colaba, a restaurant that evokes a sense of home and comfort.
Join Gauri and Dylan for this captivating episode as they explore the intricacies of food, culture, and the pursuit of authenticity in a culinary world increasingly driven by image and accolades. This episode is an essential watch for anyone interested in the art of cooking, the challenges of the culinary industry, and the unique flavours of Thai cuisine. Whether you're a food lover, a traveller, or simply curious about the life of a chef who defies convention, this episode promises to be an engaging and insightful experience.