I had issues with poor tickover on the YZF R1, 2007 model (fuel injected engine), which kept cutting out. After fearing the worst, turns out it just needed new spark plugs. With new plugs, it started first time and ticks over perfectly.
The best way I found to remove the black plastic studs retaining the fairing was to get a small flat bladed screwdriver, slide it carefully under the edge flange and withdraw the central 'locking pin', which releases them (see video) and they are reusable. Perhaps there's a better tool, but this works reasonably well.
Removing the fairing - after removing all fastenings, the 'tube like' plastic protrusion one can see moulded into the fairing (shown at 02:23 in the video) needs to be pulled out using one's fingertips carefully in the small gap above the main side fairings - when this is pulled out (about 5-6mm) it allows the fairing to be slid back and forth, to remove or to fit the fairing using the flat shaped slide-locking tabs seen beside it in the video, (do this bit before refitting the other fastenings, when refitting).
The radiator needs to be loosened by removing a bolt either side of the petrol tank and one at the bottom of it, allowing it to drop a few inches for better access to the spark plug area - no pipes need to be disconnected (i.e. no need to drain it), though some white wiring block connectors and cable ties (zip ties) do. Check your cooling fans are rotating freely, whilst the back of the radiator is accessible.
Battery - the cost of a new battery for the R1 is mental where we live in Scandinavia, but the battery from a Yamaha XT600e (1995 model) fits straight in and works fine. Technically, it may be of a lower cranking power (I haven't checked) which means it would degrade ever so slightly faster than the correct battery, but at a third of the price, who cares? Always disconnect your battery before working on your bike to avoid any damage to electrics.
At 08:00 "Immobiliser" is the word I was looking for - sorry
Immobiliser issues: Some years ago the engine just would not fire at all - this was rectified by a mechanic - turns out it was a known problem on this year model - something to do with cooling fans damaging the immobiliser wiring in some way (sorry I don't know the details) - the problem was rectified in a couple of hours and it cost some 150 Euros to get it done in Switzerland.
Have fun!